Nadi - walk for health! #crochet mobile pouch pattern!
- saiasmidreamzinyar
- May 11
- 7 min read
Nadi - means 'walk' in Kannada language. This project was a started to help me carry my mobile on my daily walks! Its a one-piece, seamless pattern made with just a 50g ball of DK yarn!
Nadi Mobile Pouch is a quick project and can be made in one sitting. It's seamless and hence doesn't need small piece carried along. Start and end with just the same skein/ball of yarn! You can make it colorful using scrap yarn, though that would involve joining new yarn and hence sewing in the ends :D
If you'd like an Ad-Free PDF (Written + Pictorial pattern) - you can always purchase the same from my Ravelry or Lovecrafts stores.
As a part of the GLOBAL CROCHET COLLABORATION - this pattern: Nadi Mobile Pouch is #free #freeonblog for all time.
The #crochetpattern on this blog includes instructions to make
The pouch base
Building the pouch and making the strap.
Pictorials for reference
If you'd like an Ad-Free PDF (Written + Pictorial pattern) - you can always purchase the same from my Ravelry or Lovecrafts stores.
INSTRUCTIONS to make the Nadi Mobile Pouch!
SKILL Level – Easy/Intermediate
About Pattern: Nadi - means 'walk' in Kannada language. This project was a started to help me carry my mobile on my daily walks! Its a one-piece, seamless pattern made with just less than one ball of DK yarn!
COMPLETED SIZE: this was customized to fit my personal device. You can easily modify the stitch count/row count to customize it to your device.
If you'd like an Ad-Free PDF (Written + Pictorial pattern) - you can always purchase the same from my Ravelry or Lovecrafts stores.
Materials:
Yarn Used:● Yarn of choice – DK weight cotton yarn. Total Yardage: 88 - 98 yards for 50g
I have used – approximately 85 - 95 yards Vardhaman Cotton Dreamz Cotton yarn for the featured project featured in the document.
Crochet hook – I HAVE USED: 4mm hook) for the project featured in the picture. You can use crochet hook, a size or two smaller than you’d usually use with the yarn. This gives you tight stitches and rigidity to the project.
Scissors and a needle to finish up.
GUAGE: N/A. According to the gauge/yarn/ hook used, the size and stiffness of the project may vary. Custom instructions will be highlighted.
If you'd like an Ad-Free PDF (Written + Pictorial pattern) - you can always purchase the same from my Ravelry or Lovecrafts stores.
Stitches used: US crochet terms
ch - chain
ss – slip stitch
sc – single crochet
dc – double crochet
fpdc – front post double crochet
3dc - make 3 double crochet in the same stitch/space as indicated in the instructions.
Crossed Bobble stitch. (it is made across 3 stitches)
yo, skip 2 stitches and dc in the next stitch, ch1,
yo, go back to the first skipped stitch,
insert hook and pull up a long loop (3 loops on the hook),
yo again, insert hook into the same stitch and pull up another long loop.
(5 loops on the hook), yo and pull through all the loops.
Ch1 to close the stitch. (This ch1 doesn’t count as a stitch when we make the sc rows in pattern)
PLEASE NOTE:
· ch3 counts as dc unless specified otherwise.
· ch1 and ch2 at the beginning of a round doesn’t count as a stitch, unless specified.
If you'd like an Ad-Free PDF (Written + Pictorial pattern) - you can always purchase the same from my Ravelry or Lovecrafts stores.
LET’S START!!!
STEP 1 – BASE: The base of the bag is as follows:
Chain 18, dc in the 6th chain from the hook.
(ch2, skip the next 2 chains and dc in the next chain) * 4 times.
CUSTOMIZE: to increase or decrease the project size; use multiples of 3 chains.
If you'd like an Ad-Free PDF (Written + Pictorial pattern) - you can always purchase the same from my Ravelry or Lovecrafts stores.
STEP 2 – Building from the base.
Step Slip stitch around the last dc made. We will work round 1 starting here. And going around the ladder.
Round 1 – ch3 , dc in the same space,
Ch1, make 3 more dc in the same space (we are shaping the first corner)
Make 3dc in every chain space across till you reach the last loop of the ladder.
Here, in this loop, make 3dc, ch1, 2dc, ch1, 3dc (this shapes 2nd and 3rd corners).
Continue on the other side and make 3dc in each of the ch2 spaces till we come back to the loop where we started the round.
In this space, make 3dc, ch1 and slip stitch into the top of the beginning ch3.
If you'd like an Ad-Free PDF (Written + Pictorial pattern) - you can always purchase the same from my Ravelry or Lovecrafts stores.
Round 2 – ch2 (doesn’t count as stitch), fpdc around the first 2 stitches,
Sc in next ch1 space,
Make sc in each stitch of till the next ch1 space,
Make sc in that chain space,
Make an fpdc around the next 2 stitches,
Make sc in next ch1 space,
Make sc in each stitch till the last ch1 space,
Make sc in that space and join to the top of the first fpdc made.
If you'd like an Ad-Free PDF (Written + Pictorial pattern) - you can always purchase the same from my Ravelry or Lovecrafts stores.
Round 3 – ch2, fpdc around the next 2 stitches, ch 1, skip the next sc stitch,
Make a Crossed Bobble Stitch over the next 3 stitches * across the side.
Skip the last sc before the fpdc stitches, ch1,
Make fpdc around each of the next 2 stitches,
Skip next stitch, ch1,
Make a crossed Bobble Stitch over the next 3 stitches* across,
Skip the last sc stitch, ch 1 and slip stitch to the top of the first fpdc stitch to join.
If you'd like an Ad-Free PDF (Written + Pictorial pattern) - you can always purchase the same from my Ravelry or Lovecrafts stores.
Round 4 – ch2 (doesn’t count as stitch), fpdc around the first 2 stitches,
Sc in next ch1 space,
make one sc on each of the stitches and the ch1 spaces of the Crossed Bobble Stitches across.
Please Note:
· The ch1 made to close the Crossed Bobble stitch does not count as a stitch. Hence, we do not make a sc for that.
Cross Bobbled Stitch is left leaning (where the bobble part is made over the front of the dc made).
Make sc in that chain space,
Make an fpdc around the next 2 stitches,
Make sc in next ch1 space,
make one sc on each of the stitches and the ch1 spaces of the Crossed Bobble Stitches across.
Make sc in that space and join to the top of the first fpdc made.
Check the picture on next page for the Stitch diagram for Round 4.
If you'd like an Ad-Free PDF (Written + Pictorial pattern) - you can always purchase the same from my Ravelry or Lovecrafts stores.
Round 5 – ch2, fpdc around the next 2 stitches, ch 1, skip the next 2 sc stitches,
(Make 3dc in the next stitch, skip the next 2 stitches) * across the side.
Skip the last 2 sc before the fpdc stitches, ch1,
Make fpdc around each of the next 2 stitches,
Skip next 2 stitches, ch1,
(Make 3dc in the next stitch, skip the next 2 stitches) * across the other side.
Skip the last 2 sc stitches, ch 1 and slip stitch to the top of the first fpdc stitch to join.
REPEAT Round 2-5 as many times as required to get the required height of the project.
End on an EVEN round; DO NOT Cut the yearn. We will start the strap after that!
If you'd like an Ad-Free PDF (Written + Pictorial pattern) - you can always purchase the same from my Ravelry or Lovecrafts stores.
STEP 3 – Making the Strap
Now we work in Rows. Turning the work back and front while we make the strap.
Row 1: ch1 (doesn’t count as a stitch),
Sc in the top of the first fpdc, ch 2, sc in top of the next fpdc stitch. TURN
Row 2: ch1, in the ch 2 space,
Make (sc, ch2, sc). TURN.
REPEAT Row 2 till you get the required length of the strap.
If you'd like an Ad-Free PDF (Written + Pictorial pattern) - you can always purchase the same from my Ravelry or Lovecrafts stores.
To join the strap to the other side.
Make sure the strap is straight and not twisted and join it to the top of the unworked fpdc on the opposite side; follow the instruction below.
· On the strap, slip stitch in the ch2 space and into the first fpdc.
· Slip stitch in same chain space and the second fpdc.
Fasten Off and Weave in the ends.
If you'd like an Ad-Free PDF (Written + Pictorial pattern) - you can always purchase the same from my Ravelry or Lovecrafts stores.
If you like quick projects, and minimum/ no-sew projects – then check out my other patterns in my Ravelry Store.
Lastly, I would love to see your projects, so please do tag ‘Pattern by #saiasmidreamzinyarn’ on any Social Media platform, and I will be able to see them. This is totally optional. You can sell or gift the items made with this pattern, but please DO give credit to the Pattern and mention the source of Pattern. THANK YOU!
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